Monday, November 23, 2009

Upon This Rock is My Foundation

While on Santa Cruz, I am staying in a home with a host family. The family consists of the husband and wife, their daughter who is about 12 years old and their 4 year old son who is blind and does little more than lie in a playpin all day and night.  The woman of the house works as the human resources director at the hospital and was kind enough to offer me a room in her home during my time volunteering at the hospital.  The family is always very nice to me; they serve me breakfast, and lunch if I decide to come home during the lunch hour, and they offer me dinner, which I have yet to have at the home since I always have dinner with friends I have met on the island. Her house appears to be an average home on the island.  There are definitely better ones on the island, and even though I have not seen any that are worse, I’m sure they exist. 

The front of the home appears quite nice.  Decorated with (actually constructed out of) rocks.  And there is a dirt path leading from the road to the wooden front door.  Inside the home are two bedrooms, a family room, a kitchen, and an eating area.  However, the home is almost like one big room.  There are no doors, only curtains to cover the doorways.  And the walls don’t go all the way up to the ceiling. And by ceiling, I am referring to the roof of metal sheets that lie on top of the 2x4 rafters.  So there isn’t much privacy for the 12 year old girl that lives in the second bedroom. 

The side of the house has separate living quarters in which I stay.  I have my own entrance, bedroom, and another living room which only has a table, a chair, and a randomly placed stove.

The house, and the neighbors’, are built on top of lava rock.  Concrete has been poured over the rock to act as the floor of the home, but the real foundation is the lava rock.  The floor of the home is, for the most part, even.  I have not placed a ball on the floor but am sure it would roll one way or another.  The bare concrete is the floor inside the home.  There is no carpet or tile, simply concrete.  I do not walk barefoot, for I know the bottom of my feet will be black within 10 seconds of walking on the floor here.  I also do not use the bathroom or shower barefoot.

The bathroom is quite interesting.  And by interesting I mean the closest I have experienced using a bathroom like this was at camp when I was 12 years old.  To get to the bathroom, I have to walk outside to the back of their home.  The bathroom does have four concrete walls, a flushing toilet, a sink, and a shower head, all of which I am thankful for.  The door to the bathroom is constructed out of a thin plywood.  There are a few holes in the plywood and when the door is swung closed it is never actually shut.  The door isn’t as wide as the opening in the wall, so when it’s closed there is a large gap between it and the wall.  Since I share the bathroom with the family, I glance through the hole and the gap when I approach it to see if someone else is occupying the bathroom.  And I know from experience that the other members of the family do the same thing.

When taking a shower I try to use the water wisely.  Water is a precious commodity on the islands and should not be wasted.  But showering with little water is easy to do since the water is cold.  When I first turn on the shower, I stand to the side and put my hand in the water hoping the water will become warm but knowing it won’t.  I quickly and relunctantly wet my hair, then turn off the water and shampoo my hair, lather my body with soap, turn the cold water back on and rinse off.  I try to shower during the day when the air is still warm; if I shower at night the air is considerably cooler and I always get goosebumps.  The good thing about having the experience of always having a cold shower is the realization of how much water people in the States waste when showering.  I heard from a tour guide the average person living in the Galapagos uses 5 liters of water when showering, and the average North American uses 70 liters!  What a huge difference.  I think when I get back to the States I will continue to use the method of turning off the water when washing myself.  Anyways, back to the home:

The bathroom also smells terrible. It took me a day to figure out the smell resembles formaldehyde.  I’m not sure what causes the bathroom to smell like my gross anatomy lab. A friend told me her bathroom here on the island also stinks as a result of the unclean water.  But I think the stench in the bathroom I use is coming from something besides the water.  It could be coming from the drain in the middle of the bathroom floor, or from the paint on the walls, or from the mold growing on the back of wood door.  I doubt I’ll find the source, nor do I really care to find the source.  I would just like it to go away. 

 

Spoiled Little Princess

 

So, I, a privledged female from the United States (let alone Boca Raton), am temporarily living in conditions similar to the majority of the world.  Am I going to act spoiled or be a whimp if I move out of my current home and into a better one?   My host family is so nice to me that I will feel really guilty if I move out early.  But I feel that I have reason to move out. 

Five out of seven nights I came home to find a huge rat scurring up my bedroom wall and through the cracks between the wall and the roof.  Today, while I was sitting on my bed writing in my journal, I saw a small mouse roaming across my floor.  I scarred it away a few times but it kept coming back.  Every evening when I come home I find new animal droppings in my room, sometimes on the table, sometimes on a shelf, and sometimes on my bed.  They are tiny little droppings and I think they belong to the rat I see everyday, or the mouse I saw today.  I don’t think they belong to the humongus gekoes I found in my room yesterday, and don’t know of any other animal roaming around in my room.  This can’t be sanitary.  Rats carry all sorts of diseases and their droppings can carry deadly diseases.  But I think to myself, if this family and many other families are living inside their homes with these same encounters, I can surely muster up the mental strength to live in these conditions for a single month.  I just hope I won’t catch any illness while here. 

After six days of living here, I’m starting to get used to the conditions.  And the rat doesn’t scare me as much as it once did.  I still hesitate when I open my door when I come home and I turn on the light as quickly as I can so it will scare the rat away.  The past two nights I slept with my bedroom light on, hoping the light will keep the rat out of my room while I sleep.  To avoid smelling the stench of the bathroom, I brush my teeth outside and spit my toothpaste onto the dirt or lava rock, sometimes having to avoid spitting on the chickens walking outside.

My friends on the island all think I should move out, and I do too. But I hate to disappoint my host family. Also, I don’t know if they really need the money I’m paying to stay in their home.  Which by the way is the best deal in town ($150 a month with breakfast and lunch), but with these living conditions I think it should be the best deal in town. My host family knows there is a rat living in the home.  Two nights I screamed when I saw the rat.  The first time was late at night with only the grandma awake in the living room.  She heard me scream and said “que eso? El rato?”  (what’s the matter, the rat?), and the other time I screamed, the mom asked me what was the matter and came over to my room when I responded it was a big rat.  She didn’t think much of it and thought I was silly for screaming. 

Tomorrow, during my free time (I don’t have to work until 4pm), I plan to move into a clean hostel down the street.  I’m just not sure how I’m going to break the news to my host family and hope it wont be awkward when I see my host mom in the hospital from time to time.

 

Gold on the Island

A common activity while in the Galapagos is to search for a particular gold.  This type of gold won’t make you rich, but it can certainly help provide you with a temporary state of happiness.  Even though this gold isn’t a type of standard currency, it could easily work as a makeshift currency at times.  You can obtain this precious gold on the mainland and I regret not bringing more of it with me.  I was in need of more and searched for some for two days on Santa Cruz Island.  You see this precious gold will prevent me from being in pain after I have been exploring the island and sea; and it will help prevent me from developing disease and dying early.  This gold is sunblock.  While staying on an island located close to the equator and spending most of the day outdoors, I, tourists, and other volunteers are constantly lathering up with sunblock and we quickly use up all the sunblock we brought with us.  A person that has not visited the Galapagos wouldn’t think this is a big deal; sure there must be lots of stores selling sunblock and it can be easily purchased.  Let me advise you: if you come to the Galapagos buy plenty of sunblock prior to coming!  After searching just about every store on the two main roads on Santa Cruz, I have only found two brands of sunblock that come in very small containers and are ridiculously priced.  If you’d like a high SPF, be prepared to put down some cash- the higher the SPF, the higher the price.  For example, a four ounce container of spf 15 sunblock costs around $5; a four ounce container of spf 50 sunblock costs on average $21.  And these little four ounces won’t supply you with many days of sun protection.  I was refusing to pay $21 for the 50 spf that I wanted.  I was considering buying a couple containers of the less expensive spf 15, but kept holding off on the purchase in hopes that by some miracle the prices would drop in the next 2 days when I knew my current supply would run out. 

Well, on my fourth night on the island, I struck some luck again.  My friend Sam and I were sitting down at a table for dinner when three other tourists were forced to sit down at our table because there were no others available.  These tourists recognized me from the other day when I ran into them in a dive shop and we all hit it off well.  One of our converstation topics was this ridiculously priced sunblock.  As it turns out one of them had a huge, hardly used container of spf 50 on him that he bought at walgreens in the states for $5.  Since he was leaving the next day, he decided offer me his sunblock.  He was so kind, and wouldn’t accept any cash. Well actually he did accept it but later gave it to Sam to buy me a weeks worth of ice cream with it. I’m so thankful for his generosity. 

We decided if we ever come back to the Galapagos, we should bring with us a large supply of sunblock and sell it to the tourists on the beach for a small profit.... this little gig of ours could be quite successful.

How Vain Are You?

Would you be able to live in a house without a mirror?  Think about how often you look at yourself in a mirror.  After you brush your teeth, you look at yourself to make sure you don’t have toothpaste on your face; when you put your contacts in your eyes; when you brush your hair; when you put on makeup; when you shave your face, when you tweeze your eyebrows; all of these daily activites typically involve looking at your reflection in the mirror.  And don’t forget the quick glance in the mirror before you leave home to make sure your tie is on straight or your hair is styled correctly, or when washing your hands after using the restroom.  So, do you think you could break the habit and live without a mirror? Or at least go about your daily life without the use of a mirror for just one month?

I’m sure some people reading this will respond “yes, I can live without a mirror—I have done so when camping”. But can you really imagine yourself living the same life you have right now and still answer “yes”?

Well, I’m facing this situation right now.  The human resources director of the hospital on Santa Cruz Island offered me a room in her home over the course of my one month stay on the island.  Her home is an average home on the island but would be considered very humble in the eyes of any North American.  And within this home, I have yet to find a mirror; that’s correct, not even the bathroom (which is outside) has a mirror.

I think this is quite common.  My first residence in Quito also did not have a mirror in the house.  The lady of the house used a pocket size mirror that she kept in her purse when applying makeup.  This was one of the many reasons I moved to a new location for my one month stay in Quito.  Also, very few public restrooms or restroom in restaurants have mirrors.  I’m not sure why mirrors are so rare to find.

….. Well, after 40 hours of living without a mirror, I purchased a small handheld mirror at a local shop for $5.  I suppose I’m calling myself vain or at least I’m admitting I like to see my reflection each day.  This one little luxury is a wonderful aid in my daily regimen and is greatly improving my stay on the island.  J

Crime on the Islands

Crime virtually does not exist.  No matter how poor and desperate the people are on the island, hardly any crime occurs. As a tourist, I can walk around with money hanging out of my pocket, or leave my bag on the street corner without worrying about my items being taken.  I can also walk home alone at night without any fears.  However, I do know of one incident of theft told to me by an American college student, named Ryan, doing an internship at a hotel on San Cristobal. 

Ryan was working on his laptop in the hotel foyer when him and the other employees were called away from where they were working.  About 10 minutes later, Ryan was told by a man on the street outside to go into the hotel to make sure nothing was missing because he saw some local teenage boys go inside the hotel for a few mintues.  Ryan discovered his laptop was mission.  He called the local police.  Ryan and the local police asked around for information on the suspected boys.  One person down the street recognized one of the boys.  The police found him five minutes later with Ryan laptop.  So within an hour of Ryan’s laptop being stolen, he had it safely back in his hands. 

This occurance is quite rare and may be the only known occurance of theft on the island in the past few months.  This story gives an example of how and why small towns are typically safe. 

 

Here’s another example of the lack of crime on the island:

Bicycles are everywhere.  Since the town is small (and cars are very expensive to transport to the island) very few people own a car.  Few people use scooters, but most either walk to their destination or ride a bike.  Bikes commonly lean up against the side of a building or are placed on a bike rack.  Among all of the bikes I’ve seen on the island, I have yet to see a single bike locked up.  Even though, there are many tourists and locals wanting a bike to use, there doesn’t seem any thought of stealing a bike.  

Small Town, Nice People: San Cristobal Island, Galapagos

Why are small towns known to have nice people living in them?  Well, because everyone knows everyones business! The Galapagos only have a population of a 20,000 or so amongst all of them; so it’s common to see people you know walking down the street.  Even when on Santa Cruz Island I see people I met on San Cristobal. 

During my time on San Cristobal I felt welcomed and respected.  Richard, a guide on the island and the son of the woman who’s hotel I stayed in, was telling me he feels compelled to be a good person and nice to everyone.  Because if he’s not, there is no where for him to go, no where for him to hide.  This is a simple concept that was proven to me when walking the boardwalk with Richard.  We must have stopped every two minutes to say hello to someone he knew.  The laid back, carefree island attitude has locals smiling and waving at one another throughout the day. 

I really enjoyed my time on San Cristobal and wish I stayed longer than two days. 

 

Tuesday, November 3, 2009

Pollution

I wrote this tid bit in my journal my first week in Quito:

The pollution in Quito is almost unbearable for me. I´ve never been in a city that is this dirty. When a city bus starts moving after having been stopped, a huge black cloud of exhaust spills out. This morning, about 30 minutes after I showered, I was standing on the sidewalk waiting for the bus I needed. Traffic was a bit heavy so some buses had to stop near me.
When they started moving again, I seriously wondered if my hair was still blonde.
-my eyes feel polluted
-my teeth feel as though they have a black film on them
-the q-tips white cotton is quite dark after i clean my ears-- even though I know it´s not healthy to use q-tips
-at the end of each day my throat is hurting and I think its a result of breathing in polluted air

Now, after 3 weeks of living in Quito, I do not feel the pollution on my teeth, in my eyes, or on my skin. I still hold my breath when a bus starts charging up along side me with its black cloud of exhaust trailing behind it. But, I´ve gotton used to the dirt and the black marks on the ceilings and walls caused by the polluted air. What once was the only thing in Quito to bother me doesn´t bother me all that much anymore.